WWe keep being surprised by Junn J. For his lastest collection, the Korean designer strikes hardest. We thought we had seen all there is to see of his eccentric and oversized world but once again, he thinks outside the box. Directly coming from a cyberpunk world, the looks are a formidable mix of blade runner and Hokuto No Ken. Leather is everywhere and the dark colors evoke a post-apocalyptic era. The back of the fur coats has drawings of Hajime Sorayama, in particular his ultra-sexy humanoid pin-up. Once more, Junn. J makes a difference on the international fashion scene with a true creative approach. Even scarcely wearable, his collection is extremely original. Cyril Pham
ADER error is the name behind the rising and colorful Korean brand composed of several designers. Introducing a young and dynamic kind of fashion, the label breaks the country’s codes and offers androgynous pieces where genders blend. For their Autumn/Winter 2015 collection, they progressively revealed throughout the season a collection divided in three chapters directly linked between one another. The first chapter is a tribute to the sporty nineties. The first feeling that comes out is the old school vibe present in the looks, bringing us back to puberty or even to childhood, with this soft fleece sweater. ADER error’s designers managed to turn the nineties emblems into pretty cool garments. The corduroy fabric is thicker and mixed with camel jackets, trousers and berets. The old-fashioned track jacket is worn with high-waisted jeans and the sports garments get bigger, with oversized shapes making them wearable every single day. As usual, ADER error introduced a first chapter quite provoking, with slogans and symbols aiming at making the Korean youth change. The second chapter gets deeper in the winter. …
There is a kind of simplicity in Junichi Abe’s newest collection, where beauty is hidden in its details. The leopard print is used as a common thread here, appearing on suit jackets and socks, giving a wild side to the looks. At Kolor, beige, navy blue and grey will make the next winter. Monotonous, do you think? Absolutely not. Juanita Abe knows how to use contrasts when it comes to colors. If the main part of this collection is made of minimalist style pieces, we can still find offbeat hints, as usually done. The look #32 is one of them with a coat composed of a patchwork of prints and yellow furry flat shoes. As for the look #1, the blue and shiny vinyl coat contrast with the rest of the look, more neutral. Simple, yet surprising, this collection is a poetic dance toward winter.
As the whole world is finally discovering the much-awaited Star Wars: the force awaken, we could not avoid to notice that the fashion industry has payed many tributes to the saga all year long and Undercover’s Jun Takahashi is one of the designers who did it. In his Spring/Summer 2016 collection, the message is quite simple. You only have three options: being a jedi, a sith or a rebel. The Japanese designer created his collection according to these themes and the colors he has chosen illustrates it: beige for jedis; black and red for siths; and fluorescent colors for the rebel alliance. Even if Star Wars universe is very deep, Jun Takahashi manages to impose his personal and unique style. Special mention to the printed jacket with Luke and Leia combatting Darth Vader on it. Cyril Pham
For his third collection, Ximon Lee confirms his lose and destructured style. For next summer, the designer has played with shapes, as he usually does, and this time, used typography as well in the game. The word ‘Enjoy’ appears on several pieces and the whole collection is filled with enigmatic sentences. Ximon Lee has used the same materials and range of colors as he did in his previous collections but this time, he manages to convince us even more. Indeed, the designer seems to be more confident and mature in his designs. His clothing experiences are more structured and refined. Less complex, the Spring/Summer 2016 collection looks even fresh. We are pleased to see Ximon Lee still really creative, defending an inventive and uninhibited type of fashion. Photographer : Louise Victoria Reinke Cyril Pham
Yang Li belongs to a new generation of Chinese designers who thrive in the fashion industry thanks to their creativity. Li graduated from Central Saint Martins in London and worked alongside Raf Simons before he launches his eponymous label in 2011. For his first menswear collection, Yang Li explores minimalism. One can easily notice his skills in the use of fabrics and the clear cuts. This ninth collection is inspired by the Italian and Chinese presses, as illustrated by the typographic signs and prints that appears on the clothes. Reminiscent of the twenties, the oversized trousers are designed with large hems, giving a casual and laid-back style to the silhouettes. Beige is dominant in this collection, directly referring to used newspaper. Halfway between an old journalist and a young skater, Yang Li signs an innovating and successful collection that unveils an original conception of menswear. Cyril Pham
Uniqlo has announced the launch of a capsule collection with one of the most important Kabuki companies, Shochiku Co. Kabuki is a traditional Japanese theatre art that belongs to UNESCO’s immaterial cultural heritage masterpieces since 2005. The collection will be released in Uniqlo’s UT range that focuses on making both popular and traditional cultures known. For this project, Nigo – aka UT’s creative director and BAPE’s founder – created pieces with imagery and cuts that refer to Kabuki’s universe. He was joined by Ennosuke Ichikawa IV, a famous actor, to create this collection mixing modernity and tradition. The collection will launch on the 19th of March in selected stores.
Plac x Kye have released the first images of their collaboration and it looks really attractive. Denim is the main guest of the collection and is declined in jackets, dungarees, skirts and trousers. Looking washed-out and torn, the pieces are designed to give an attitude to their wearer. Adding its own signature to the pieces, Kye‘s logo and chain print appear on sweats and tee-shirts. The collection is a nod to rock’s iconography, with skull heads, old-school swallows and diamonds. Incidentally, a leather perfecto jacket is part of the collaboration. Completing the silhouettes, accessories look wiser, more elegant. The collection will be available for purchase from the beginning of March.
Once again, Nike and Jun Takahashi’s UNDERCOVER have announced their famous GYAKUSOU collaboration for Spring/Summer 2015. Member of the GIRA Tokyo Club and a running enthusiast, Takahashi is collaborating with the sportswear brand since 2010 to create refined and technical running clothing. As usual, the result is beautiful. This summer, the colors range from purple and red to orange. The clothes are made to be worn close to the body to bring more ease during the effort. The technologies used in the GYAKUSOU collection are chosen to have the best running experience. Thus, Nike’s Sweat Map innovation is used to ventilate the body. Only few images have been released yet. The collection will be out on the 19th of February. Expect more information to come!
Public School designers Dao-Yi Chow and Maxwell Osborne have presented last weekend their Autumn-Winter 2015 collection during New York Fashion Week. True to the brand codes, they used dark colors and technical pieces with a sporty appearance. For both Women and Men, the collection’s identity is defined with oversize pieces, long wool coats and graphic prints. Women silhouettes will be more colorful than Men’s next season, with blue and red geometrical prints. The famous tartan is also used for both sex and modernized with red, blue and grey shades. Accessories borrow from the 1990s street wear, with the classic beanie, cap and sneakers. Incidentally for this collection, Public School has collaborated with Nike to create a very limited edition of the Air Jordan 10, produced in only 50 copies and showed for the first time during the show. The long scarves give volume and presence to the silhouettes. Giving a first impression of casualness and relaxed attitude, the collection is actually really technical. Indeed, the materials and technologies used in the clothes are really well …